Diego and Nora Molinari, Proprietors |
Country of Origin: Italy
Location: Montalcino
People: Diego & Nora Molinari, Owners | Diego, Winemaker
Diego Molinari was an Alitalia pilot for 25 years before retiring in the late 1970s to pursue his winemaking dreams. He and his dynamic wife, Nora, looked at several vineyards before discovering the bucolic Cerbaiona estate, located on a ridge just east of Montalcino.
When he arrived, Molinari had an abundance of enthusiasm, but needed practical knowledge. So he visited many of the region's top estates, asking questions and trying to find his way. Diego was particularly inspired by Biondi-Santi, whose traditionally driven philosophy he was determined to follow. Consequently, he and Nora soon set about rehabilitating Cerbaiona's ancient farmhouse and planting a small vineyard — not surprisingly, with vine cuttings from the Biondi-Santi estate. Though Diego was adapting his practices in both the vineyard and cellar, he was steadfast in his commitment to honor Montalcino's winemaking traditions — based on magical old bottles he'd tasted.
Simplicity Itself. Winemaking at Cerbaiona is straightforward. The grapes are harvested by hand and pressed in a vintage wood-sided press before fermenting in cement tanks. After a period of settling, the Brunello spends 4+ years in cask and at least 6 months in bottle before release. Nothing is added (no yeast, no enzymes) and nothing is subtracted (no fining or filtration).
With winemaking this straightforward, the explanation for Cerbaiona's excellence must lie with Diego's tiny 3-ha vineyard (1/2 Brunello, 1/2 IGT). While much is written about the difference between northern and southern Montalcino wines, Cerbaiona lies in an intermediate zone. Consequently, the vineyard yields beautiful fruit which balances the south's ripeness with the freshness and structure of the north.
Of course, none of this would matter without a forceful mind to guide the process. Diego's careful, organic husbandry of his vineyard, his short-pruning for low yields, and his courage to let the wine express Montalcino's evocative character without "make-up" are integral to Cerbaiona's compelling wines.
Wine Advocate 6/2013
"It’s always great to spend some time with Diego and Nora Molinari. The
Molinaris may have slowed down a bit in recent years, but these wines
prove they own one of Montalcino’s uncontestable grand cru sites. My
visit this year ended with the 1989 Brunello di Montalcino. Nora
Molinari told me this was the worst Brunello she and Diego had ever
made. At one point, the Molinaris stopped selling the 1989 because they
were embarrassed by the quality of the wine. Well, after 24 years, I can
say the 1989 Brunello is gorgeous. No, it isn’t a great wine by this
estate’s standards, but it has aged with superb grace. Suffice it to
say, most producers would have been thrilled to have made a wine of this
quality. Simply put, this is a great showing from Cerbaiona, one of
Montalcino’s timeless classics."
From Gambero Rosso 2012
"La Cerbaiona is a site of pilgrimage for all
Brunello lovers. Its vineyards cover an area of less than three hectares on
gravelly soil with low clay content and produce approximately 15,000 bottles a
year that fly off the shelves every year. Diego and Nora Molinari, with their
inseparable cats, continue to produce highly recognizable wines with exemplary
class. They follow the estate’s tradition of fermentation in concrete vats,
without the use of cultured yeasts, followed by aging in 30-hectoliter barrels,
and dedicate painstaking care to harvest selection and shoot thinning.”
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| Current Items from Cerbaiona |
| Cat # |
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Pack-Size |
Net |
Reviews |
| 6436 |
Cerbaiona 2008 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG |
6-750 |
$860 |
845 Exp: | WA 93+ IWC 92 |
| 6437 |
Cerbaiona 2010 Rosso di Montalcino DOC |
6-750 |
$245 |
230 Exp: | WA 92 |
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