Stephane Riffault |
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Country of Origin: France
Location: Sancerre
People: Stéphane Riffault, Owner & Winemaker
Supplier: http://www.jondavidwine.com
Domaine Claude Riffault is one of the shining stars of the Sancerre appellation. Sancerre, predominately known for the production of world-class Sauvignon Blanc, is located in the eastern Loire Valley. Geographically and geologically, it is closer to Chablis (in Burgundy) than most of the rest of the Loire Valley. Made up primarily of broken limestone and flint (called 'silex') soils, this region produces white wines of amazing purity and cut, often with smoky aromas.
The domaine, which has been family owned and run for 5 generations, is now in the hands of Claude's son, Stéphane, who is working the soil in a much more organic fashion than his father. The family owns 33 different (and quite small) plots in 6 different lieu-dits spread across 4 villages. The 13.5 hectares of vines are plowed and no synthetic material is used (the property is in the process of being certified organic). Unlike most Sancerre producers, the entire harvest is carried out by hand and an extensive sorting takes place before the grapes are crushed. The vines are all vinified by plot and by soil type before some are assembled to make a small number of bottlings. With the exception of the rosé, all of the wines are unfiltered.
At barely 30 (in 2013), Stéphane is turning out Sancerre bottlings that are the envy of many producers twice his age. As David Schildknecht put it, "make no mistake: this address in the hamlet of Maison Salle (Sury-en-Vaux) is now one of the five or six most exciting estates in the Sancerre appellation." Given that Stéphane's holdings represent 4 tenths of 1 percent of the AOC, this kid is clearly doing something right. Having studied and worked in Burgundy (and closely with Olivier Leflaive), it's easy to see the Burgundian influence in Stéphane's wines. The mastery of minerality standing shoulder-height with the wood is rarely duplicated in Sancerre. Regardless of the exposition of his parcels (many are south-facing), Riffault's wines are always crisp and high cut.
Wine Advocate 2012
"I was delighted to at last meet young Stéphane Riffault (son of this
36-acre estate's namesake) and to taste his entire range of wines, one
so unexpectedly extensive that - while I tasted the 2011 and 2010
collections complete - shortage of time and of sample bottles from
earlier vintages at his cellar meant that I was by no means able to fill
in all of the gaps in my experience since tasting for issue 190. While I
could rest relatively easy not having tasted the 2009s, I was sorry
that I could experience only one additional wine - but what a one! - of
2008, the vintage from which Riffault's Les Boucauds had so memorably
introduced me to this domaine. If - as there is ample reason to
anticipate - this young vigneron's expertise only increases; and, more
proximately, his 2010s go the way of (let alone surpass) the bottle
evolution of the two 2008s I have experienced ... then watch out! Make
no mistake: this address in the hamlet of Maison Salle (outside
Sury-en-Vaux) is now one of the five or six most exciting estates in the
Sancerre appellation. All fruit has since 2008 been picked by hand and
sorted on a vibrating belt. Three state-of-the-art presses are employed
to permit the leisurely, gentle pressing Riffault deems essential and
which no doubt accounts for some of the striking clarity, purity, and
textural refinement of his results. He ferments most of his whites in
stainless steel but certain lots in non-new barrel ("above all for the
sake of texture by working the lees," he explains); while his Pinots
ferment exclusively in cement before being transferred to barrel.
Harvest in 2011 began September 5 and finished by the 15th, with results
whose consistent success (as judged prior to bottling, anyway) should
not be overlooked simply due to my notes being juxtaposed with those on
an exceptional 2010 collection which Riffault, too, is willing to
concede that he nailed!" |
