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Cerbaiona
Diego and Nora Molinari, Proprietors
Diego and Nora Molinari, Proprietors


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Cerbaiona Information Sheet
Country of Origin: Italy
Location: Montalcino
People: Diego & Nora Molinari, Owners | Diego, Winemaker
Supplier: http://www.rarewineco.com


Diego Molinari was an Alitalia pilot for 25 years before retiring in the late 1970s to pursue his winemaking dreams. He and his dynamic wife, Nora, looked at several vineyards before discovering the bucolic Cerbaiona estate, located on a ridge just east of Montalcino.

When he arrived, Molinari had an abundance of enthusiasm, but needed practical knowledge. So he visited many of the region's top estates, asking questions and trying to find his way. Diego was particularly inspired by Biondi-Santi, whose traditionally driven philosophy he was determined to follow. Consequently, he and Nora soon set about rehabilitating Cerbaiona's ancient farmhouse and planting a small vineyard — not surprisingly, with vine cuttings from the Biondi-Santi estate. Though Diego was adapting his practices in both the vineyard and cellar, he was steadfast in his commitment to honor Montalcino's winemaking traditions — based on magical old bottles he'd tasted.

Simplicity Itself. Winemaking at Cerbaiona is straightforward. The grapes are harvested by hand and pressed in a vintage wood-sided press before fermenting in cement tanks. After a period of settling, the Brunello spends 4+ years in cask and at least 6 months in bottle before release. Nothing is added (no yeast, no enzymes) and nothing is subtracted (no fining or filtration).

With winemaking this straightforward, the explanation for Cerbaiona's excellence must lie with Diego's tiny 3-ha vineyard (1/2 Brunello, 1/2 IGT). While much is written about the difference between northern and southern Montalcino wines, Cerbaiona lies in an intermediate zone. Consequently, the vineyard yields beautiful fruit which balances the south's ripeness with the freshness and structure of the north.

Of course, none of this would matter without a forceful mind to guide the process. Diego's careful, organic husbandry of his vineyard, his short-pruning for low yields, and his courage to let the wine express Montalcino's evocative character without "make-up" are integral to Cerbaiona's compelling wines.

Wine Advocate 6/2013
"It’s always great to spend some time with Diego and Nora Molinari. The Molinaris may have slowed down a bit in recent years, but these wines prove they own one of Montalcino’s uncontestable grand cru sites. My visit this year ended with the 1989 Brunello di Montalcino. Nora Molinari told me this was the worst Brunello she and Diego had ever made. At one point, the Molinaris stopped selling the 1989 because they were embarrassed by the quality of the wine. Well, after 24 years, I can say the 1989 Brunello is gorgeous. No, it isn’t a great wine by this estate’s standards, but it has aged with superb grace. Suffice it to say, most producers would have been thrilled to have made a wine of this quality. Simply put, this is a great showing from Cerbaiona, one of Montalcino’s timeless classics."

From Gambero Rosso 2012
"La Cerbaiona is a site of pilgrimage for all Brunello lovers. Its vineyards cover an area of less than three hectares on gravelly soil with low clay content and produce approximately 15,000 bottles a year that fly off the shelves every year. Diego and Nora Molinari, with their inseparable cats, continue to produce highly recognizable wines with exemplary class. They follow the estate’s tradition of fermentation in concrete vats, without the use of cultured yeasts, followed by aging in 30-hectoliter barrels, and dedicate painstaking care to harvest selection and shoot thinning.”
Items
Cerbaiona 2008 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Net Price Reviews —
Cerbaiona 2010 Rosso di Montalcino DOC Net Price Reviews —
Reviews
Cerbaiona 2008 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Rating: 92

Fully saturated red-ruby. Dark cherry and plum aromas with warmer notes of tobacco and coffee; fresher red cherry and berry nuances emerge with aeration. Enters the mouth with supple, sweet flavors of dark cherry, coffee and underbrush, then turns tighter but polished and suave on the back, with harmonious acidity lifting the ripe dark fruit flavors. There's something vaguely exotic about this wine. I'd decant it at least a couple of hours ahead to allow it fully to deploy its complex aromas and flavors.

- International Wine Cellar (8/1/2013)

Cerbaiona 2008 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Rating: 93+

Succulent red cherries, dried roses, violets, tar and spices are some of the many notes that are woven together in the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Intensely perfumed, the 2008 shows many of the classic Cerbaiona signatures, even if it is a touch less polished than some of the recent vintages. At the same time, the 2008 has come together nicely over the last few years, so it will be interesting to watch what happens with further time in bottle. Dried rose petals and spices add complexity to the subtle, layered flavors. This is one of the stronger wines of the year. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2026.

- The Wine Advocate (6/1/2013)

Cerbaiona 2010 Rosso di Montalcino DOC
Rating: 92

The 2010 Rosso di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous. Sweet dark cherries, spices, menthol and new leather are woven together beautifully in the glass. Savory herbs and licorice notes appear later as the wine opens up in the glass. There is a beautiful weight to the 2010, but no sense of heaviness whatsoever. The firm 2010 tannins are present yet unobtrusive. With time in the glass, the aromas and flavors brighten up in a wine that is pure class. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018.

- The Wine Advocate (6/1/2013)